Painting in:

Provence, France

Provence offers the artist the quintessential French countryside with abundant fields of poppies, lavender, vineyards and olive groves in droves. Prices are higher than the Midi-Pyrenees region for accommodation and meals. It’s a major tourist destination with all the good and bad things that go along with this designation.

Batten down the hatches! Mistrals are most common during the winter and spring, although gale-force winds can occur year-round. The wind is characterized by the sinking of cold air generated over the mountains and then funneled through the Rhone Valley. In the winter, wind speeds can reach over 100 knots off the southern coast of France. When it blows, the Mistral usually lasts for 3-7 days according to the locals. Unfortunately as luck would have it, we “enjoyed” the Mistral for almost 3 weeks in the Spring of 2006. It makes for difficult plein air painting, but resourceful artists can still ferret out beautiful sheltered locations to paint in.

One morning, Guy and I discovered the most amazing barley-poppy field near our rented gite in Les Ferriers. We set up our easels and painted on location all day, vowing to return after our stay in Remoulins. When we returned a week later – Horror! The field had been mowed down. All that remained was a rough rutted stubble revealing the cracked dry earth beneath. Luckily I had taken numerous photos the previous week. So “carpe diem” whenever possible, beauty can be here today and gone tomorrow, especially in Provence!

Apt is a wonderful market town. On market day, kilometers of long winding narrow streets are packed with market stalls throughout the old town. You can purchase fresh produce, cheese, meat, fish, fabrics, artwork, spices, lavender - the list is endless. It’s a wonderful treat for the senses. You can also find large modern grocery and hardware stores in Apt.

A traveling entertainment troupe was set up in Apt’s main square over a weekend in early June/06, We happened to be having dinner at an outdoor café there on the night of the “extravaganza” and decided to stay for the free show. The locals were out in droves, children, teenagers, adults and the elderly milled about the portable stage waiting for the show to begin. The “show” was a dance troupe consisting of a dozen topless girls and a male dancer lip-synching and gyrating across the stage to various English and French tunes. We left during the chaps and g-string rendition of Shania Twain’s “Don’t Be Stupid”. Enough said.

Great places to visit while in this area are, Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, La Coste (the hometown of the Marque de Sade), Lourmain, and the Abbaye Sénanque. If you’re ready to take a day trip, drive up to the top of Mount Ventoux, it’s an amazing journey, not only for the unstoppable view, but to see the hundreds of cyclists pushing themselves to reach the top. The road leads up to it’s conical peak where you can sit with a glass of wine on the terrace and enjoy the view. If you go during a Mistral make sure you wear a good windbreaker and gloves as it can get nippy in unsheltered areas. Another great day trip is the lavender fields around Valensole. In June and July witness a sea of lavendar as far as the eye can see – a purple carpet laid across the plateau. Bring your easels!

Where to stay...

PROVENCE: Lou Amourie and Bize de la Tour

My husband Guy and I stayed for 3 weeks at the gite Lou Amourie in Les Ferriers, Provence, Spring, 2006. What an amazing location! The house itself is wonderful – fully equipped and beautifully furnished. Located in the heart of Provence, you are only a short drive from many wonderful locations including Bonnieux, Lacoste, Apt and the ochre cliffs of Roussillon. We spent many days plein air painting on and within walking distance of the property.

Bize de la Tour was our home for a week, Spring 2006. This B&B is lovely. Beautiful rooms and breakfasts with attitude! A great location for exploring Avignon, les Baux de Provence, Uzès, and the Pont du Gard.

The owners of both Lou Amourie and Bize de la Tour are wonderful hosts who go out of their way to make you feel more like visiting friends than paying guests. English & French spoken.

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